The Datejust is the most configurable watch Rolex makes: four bezel types, three bracelet options, four metals and dozens of dials. That produces thousands of possible combinations, most of which exist somewhere and only some of which look right. We hold 629 of them, so here is how to narrow it down.
Step one: the bezel
Fluted — 18ct gold, always, even on a "steel" watch. It catches light constantly and is the most recognisably Datejust of the four. Smooth (domed) — steel, understated, makes the dial the whole watch. Engine-turned — a vintage option, machined rather than polished, mostly on 16xxx references. Diamond-set — factory-set stones, priced accordingly.
The bezel does more to set the watch's character than anything else. Choose it first.
Step two: the bracelet
Jubilee — five links, dressier, far more comfortable, historically correct. Oyster — three links, sportier, tougher, more versatile. President — only on the Lady-Datejust and Day-Date, not on a men's Datejust.
The reliable pairing rule: fluted bezel with Jubilee is the classic; smooth bezel with Oyster is the modern sports-adjacent look. Fluted with Oyster is a strong combination that reads more masculine. Smooth with Jubilee is the quietest of the four.
Step three: the metal
All-steel with a smooth bezel is the most understated. Steel with a white-gold fluted bezel (references ending 4) gives you the fluting without any visible gold. Yellow Rolesor (ending 3) is the classic two-tone. Everose Rolesor (ending 1) is the modern one. Solid gold (8 or 9) is the full commitment.
We hold 993 steel, 413 white Rolesor and 426 yellow Rolesor watches across the catalogue.
Step four: the dial
Baton (stick) markers are the default and the most legible. Roman numerals dress the watch up considerably. Diamond markers push it further again. And then there are the textured dials — the wave, the palm motif, the fluted motif, the linen and tapestry finishes on vintage references.
One rule that holds: the busier the bezel, the calmer the dial should be. A diamond bezel with a diamond dial and a Roman chapter ring is a lot of watch.
Combinations we would recommend
The safest: steel 126200, smooth bezel, Oyster bracelet, blue or silver sunburst baton dial. Goes everywhere.
The classic: yellow Rolesor 126233, fluted bezel, Jubilee, champagne baton dial. It is the Datejust everyone pictures.
The quiet one: steel 126234, white-gold fluted bezel, Jubilee, white or slate dial. Reads as steel, is not.
The modern one: Everose Rolesor 126231, fluted, Jubilee, chocolate or rosé dial.
Combinations to think twice about
Diamond bezel with a plain steel bracelet tends to look mismatched. Roman numerals on a sports-configured smooth-bezel Oyster watch pull in two directions. And a very busy stone or gem dial on a two-tone case is a lot of competing texture.
None of these are rules. But if a combination looks odd in photographs it will look odd on your wrist.
Browse the collection
Filter the Datejust collection by bezel, bracelet, dial and metal — 629 watches from £3,550.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes — 18ct white gold. That is why the reference ends in 4 rather than 0.
Steel and yellow Rolesor with common dials are the most liquid. Unusual configurations sell more slowly but can sell higher.
Technically yes, expensively. Buy the configuration you want.
