Buying Guides

Rolex Dial Colours: How to Choose the One You Will Still Like in Ten Years

· 3 min read

Once you have chosen a model, a size and a metal, the dial is the last decision — and the one you will look at every day for the rest of your life. Across our 2376 watches we hold 751 black dials, 346 white, 266 blue, 234 champagne, 224 silver and 88 mother-of-pearl. Here is how to pick.

Black — the safe default, and it earns it

Black is the highest-contrast dial Rolex makes and therefore the most legible. It suits every metal, dresses up and down without effort, and it is the colour most buyers want when you come to sell.

The risk is that it is also the most common. If you want a watch that feels chosen rather than defaulted to, black is not it.

Silver and white — quieter than they look

A silver sunburst dial changes constantly with the light and is the most understated option on a steel watch. White — particularly the crisp lacquered white on modern Oyster Perpetuals and Datejusts — is cleaner and more graphic.

Both work exceptionally well with a fluted white-gold bezel, where the dial stays calm and the bezel does the work.

Blue — the one that has appreciated

Rolex Datejust with a fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet
Rolex Datejust 126234 — ajay_suresh, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Rolex blue has been the strongest-performing dial colour of the last decade, on Datejusts, Submariners and Oyster Perpetuals alike. The sunburst blue on a steel Datejust is arguably the best-value beautiful thing in the catalogue.

Be specific about the shade. Rolex has used at least half a dozen blues, and the deep 1980s navy on a 16013 is a different watch from the bright modern sunburst.

Champagne and gold-toned dials

Champagne is the classic partner to yellow gold and yellow Rolesor, and it is out of fashion — which makes it good value. We hold 234 champagne dials. On a two-tone Datejust with a Jubilee bracelet it is the most period-correct combination there is.

It is not a subtle look. Buy it because you like it, not because it is cheap.

Mother-of-pearl, stone and lacquer

Mother-of-pearl is natural shell, so every dial is genuinely unique and the figuring varies enormously between examples — always look at photographs of the actual watch, never a stock image. We hold 88 of them.

Stone dials (onyx, lapis, malachite, meteorite) and lacquered Stella dials are the collector's end of this. They carry serious premiums and require serious verification.

Colour and resale

The market ranking, broadly and over time: black and blue are the most liquid; silver and white are close behind; champagne and brown are slower; unusual colours are either very slow or very fast depending on whether they have become collectable.

That said, dial colour moves value far less than condition, originality and completeness. Buy the one you want to look at.

Browse the collection

Filter every dial colour we stock across the full Rolex collection — 2376 watches, 266 of them with a blue dial.

Topics

DatejustOyster Perpetual

Frequently Asked Questions

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